Feb. 27, 2004
Atkins, schmatkins! Let's celebrate bread!

There's no escaping the aggressive marketing of commercial low-carbohydrate diets these days. The Atkins logo adorns, bagels, pasta, candy, ice cream, fast-food and Wal-Mart. South Beach is right behind. Each week brings a new dispatch from the "obesity epidemic," and from what you hear on TV, you'd think a sourdough baguette deadlier than toxic waste or a pack of Camels.

Well, we're not nutritionists or dieticians, and we aren't fond of fat. But we are not about to give up the very staff of life. Atkins, schmatkins. Let's celebrate bread!

A few years ago all we could get in Northern Michigan supermarkets was that spongy stuff with so little substance you could compress a whole loaf into a lump the size of a baseball. Then along came a wave of artisan bread-makers offering glorious alternatives, like French bread as good as in France itself. Today, our grocery stores have crusty baguettes, neatly chained epis, richly flavored Asiago bread, rustic boules, and sourdoughs that curl the tongue.

We'd hate to see all this goodness vanish. The low-carb fad has already taken a toll. Northern Michigan bread makers talk of slowing sales--down as much as 30 per cent in some stores, Some bakeries have had layoffs, and some restaurants tell us they don't dare serve bread automatically any more because some low-carb dieters take offense.

Personally speaking, we gratefully accept the advice of physicians who advise eating less, exercising more, and living in moderation--preferably on a diet that includes really good bread. Bread, after all, has been our most basic food since Jacob gave Esau some to go with his lentil soup. (Next time you're tempted to skip the bread and just eat the butter, ask why no one beseeches God to "give us this day our daily nutritional supplement.")

Good bread, like good wine, is a God-given blessing. It's also an art form. Each loaf reflects the bread maker's personal, creative interpretation of a few, simple ingredients. Good bread has more than flavor. It has soul and integrity. It is pleasing to hold and to look at, and has the scent of sweet, toasted grains and crust that's robust and dark with caramelized sugars from the rising dough.

Traverse City's Stone House extols the purity of the bread it makes with only wheat, water and sea salt. Well, anyone can make bread that good simply has to be using a secret, fourth ingredient. Call it love. Call it soul. Call it art.

Stone House's Bob Pisor calls it "passion."

Like him, we can't imagine a full, enjoyable, balanced life without good bread. We have a hard time enjoying even one meal without it.

Fortunately, we in Northern Michigan are blessed with good bread from passionate bakers, who make us everything from sweet baguettes and multi-grain boules to exotic pepper-Parmesan and chocolate cherry breads.

At Bay Bread Company, being able to sample breads helps us decide what to buy. We often decide on a multi-grain boule that provides plenty of fiber while also providing a hearty breakfast of toast with cheese or jam.

Crooked Tree Bread Works in Petoskey not only sells its bread straight from the oven, it will ship you a selection. Our selection whenever we stop in there is one of their "seeded" baguettes, with toasted sesame, flax and fennel seeds. It's ideal as a tear-apart complement to a hearty winter soup supper.

We love Thursday because that's when Stone House's wonderful Asiago bread hits our grocery in Elk Rapids. It's terrific all by itself, but it's also ideal for grilled-cheese lunches and for making toasted croutons to enliven our salads and soups.

Traverse City's Great Harvest Bread Co. is one of a national chain, but we're not about to hold that against someone who provides so much variety you need to check the store or website for the baking schedule. They're famous for offering big slices for sampling. Have the low-carb bread if you want, but their dill-onion rye is a fine foundation for a sandwich of Atkins-approved liverwurst and Swiss with mayo.

While all these locally baked breads are sold in grocery stores, we take special pleasure in going to the bakery for the aroma and the sight of fresh loaves lined up on racks. By all means watch your weight and count your calories and fat grams. But live a balanced life and enjoy a balanced diet. And, for crying out loud, go forth and some good bread.

DATA:
Bay Bread Co., 601 Randolph Street, Traverse City; 922-8022
Great Harvest Bread Company,  895 S. Garfield, Traverse City; 947-9670
Stone House Bread, 407 S. Main, Leland; 800-252-3218.
Crooked Tree Bread Works, 2286 Harbor-Petoskey Rd., Petoskey, 888-591-8688