April 1, 2005
Java Jones has a Jones for more than Java

It's not often that a public works project spawns a hot new restaurant, but that may be the case in Elk Rapids. The village and township recently moved into a new government center so splendid that locals call it the "Taj Mahal." That left vacant the charming downtown storefront where the village offices used to be. And that let Tammy and Kathryn Jones get serious about Java Jones, the coffee-and-sandwich spot they began three years ago in cramped quarters a few doors away.

They bought the 130-year-old village building a year ago and, after 10 months of imaginative remodeling, moved in just before New Years.

Java Jones is one of those places every town has, where locals exchange news, gossip and opinion over coffee or lunch. Now, with more space and a big, new kitchen, it may blossom into a full-scale restaurant. They've already inaugurated occasional weekend "supper club" dinners, offering chef Frank Chrzanowski's fixed-menu meals to as many as 35 patrons on a reservations-only basis, and it seems to be working out.

But we get ahead of ourselves. For now, let's just talk lunch. Tammy and Kathryn emphasize fresh and organic (and lean towards vegetarian) in their scratch-built sandwiches, soups and salads. Chrzanowski cooks up a fresh new soup every morning, and between that and Katherine's daily pot of vegetarian chili, we always find something warming to precede a wedge of generously filled quiche or a gratifying sandwich. The Joneses give new dimension to an old favorite by offering BLTs (and every other sandwich) in wrap form. A humongous, $7 club of ham, turkey, bacon, cheddar, provolone, lettuce, tomato and mayo, comes either as a wrap or on three layers of Texas toast (it's a big seller, but we've never had the courage). Their Mexican wrap is thick with refried beans, guacamole, cheddar, carrot, red onion, cucumber, tomato, lettuce and salsa.

Sandwiches and wraps range $5-7. Our last time there Sherri had a bowl of hugely flavorful pureed black-bean soup, Graydon a wrap thick with white albacore tuna, and the check ran less than $15 even with two creamy cappuccinos for dessert.

Six years ago, Tammy and Kathryn (her sister-in-law) started Java Jones in a place that had operated briefly under another name. It was so tiny that the regular business-day kaffeeklatschers just about filled it up, and when the old village offices came on the market, they went for it.

The remodeling took far longer than they expected. The workers found two false floors, crumbling brickwork, and sagging joists. They also found history. "The building was built in 1876," Tammy said, "and we're the first who ever paid taxes on it." Over the years it has seen use as the village hall, library and even the jail.

Dennis Standhardt, a downstate architect with a place in Elk Rapids, helped them blend old and new in the remodeling. Bricks salvaged from the site became a new fireplace. Unable to save the old tin ceiling, they replaced it with a modern replica. Columns installed to reinforce ceiling joists double as supports for an Internet workstation and wireless router for patrons' laptops. Fresh white paint on the wainscoting contrasts with dark polished hardwood floors and shelving. The place oozes charm, from soft fireside sofas to tall window tables and intimate banquette along one wall. There's space outside for a few tables in summer.

The day starts with breakfasts, such as a croissant with ham or bacon, or a $4 burrito of eggs, cheddar, zucchini, mushroom, tomato, onion and salsa. The vast array of coffee-bar entries range from $1.50 for a cup of freshly roasted, ground and brewed coffee, to $4.50 for quadruple espresso with chocolate, steamed milk and whipped-cream topping. In between lie the usual cappuccinos, lattes, espressos, teas, and hot chocolate.

Get lucky at lunchtime and you'll be there when Frank finishes a new batch of bread; he invariably makes the rounds of the house, offering samples.

The evening service, called "Java Jones PM," has gone unadvertised so far and has been largely limited to private groups -- a local library association, a church group, a birthday dinner. But they'll seat additional patrons if there's room. It's a way of testing the waters beyond breakfast and lunch. It also showcases Chef Chrzanowski, a long-time family friend from the Flint area, where he partnered in a place called Brady's on Broad Street. His prospective menus sound interesting, and we look forward to dinner there some day soon.

DATA: Java Jones, 131 River Street, Elk Rapids; 231-264-1111.